mardi 1 mai 2012

The Wanderer


For someone who is so much of a homebody, I seem to have been all over the place just recently. Derbyshire, Paris and then two weekends ago, Copenhagen. The beginning wasn't easy, waking up at 3:30am with my body and mind resistant to the need to get up in the middle of the night. For the first time in ages I drank tea staring out into the darkness while so many thoughts raced through my mind pumping with adrenaline. I checked and double checked that I had everything, knowing that I would forget something  (but remembering what Abbie told me, that if you forget something small, it means you have the most important things  - this time, my sunglasses) before closing the door behind me and walking through deserted streets where I feared the sound of my suitcase wheels on the cobbles would wake everyone.




Flying over the sea where the golden disc I had noticed at the airport cast its first rays over the blue opaque mass below, I could hardly contain my excitement at the thought that I was going to Scandinavia for the first time. The airport suddenly seemed deserted as we made our way though its long passageways, snacking on the muesli bars I had made for us the previous day and laughing as an airline employee passed and wished us "Velbekomme", literally, "May it do you good". What can I say about Copenhagen? From the very first glimpse it charmed me with its coloured buildings reflected in the canals, elegant houses lining narrow streets and squares, the bakeries displaying the most delicious cakes on every corner, the supermarkets which sell cartons of thick, delicious yoghurt you can drink. It was wonderful hearing the language which I've come to love from watching the Killing, Borgen and now the Bridge and from learning it every day. This is a city where bicycles rule the streets, where everything is so organised but it still feels so relaxed and even as you bask in the evening sun on the terrace of a café, no-one raises their voice as they talk. It's not a big city but I had the feeling of so much space and the gulls flying overhead reminded me that the sea is so close. We visited the Rundetårn, climbing up its slope without stairs to enjoy the view of the rooftops and palaces all around us with the Øresund bridge in the distance. We discovered the fabulous Lagkasehuset bakeries and lunched on delicious sandwiches filled with hummus and sun dried tomatoes before dividing a selection of cakes into three (our clear favourite was the strawberry rhubarb yoghurt slice). We walked until our feet ached up to the see the Little Mermaid perched on her rock before a group of students, celebrating their exam success and dressed in evening wear, descended from a bus clutching cans of Carlsberg to have their picture taken. 







The round tower

The view from the top










The English church





Celebrating in style

The genetically modified little mermaid


The forecast had promised rain but sunshine pierced through the clouds as we left Copenhagen behind for a few hours and took the train across the bridge to Malmö in Sweden. A wedding party was gathering outside the Town Hall and a brass band marched by but even on Saturday, there was still a calmness which I haven't experienced in any other city on a main shopping day.

My hotel room

On the way to Sweden



Shopping for kitchenware at Lagerhus







Pasta salad at Barista coffee in Malmö



Back in Copenhagen

Hans Christian Andersen

On the final day, we followed in the footsteps of Sarah Lund and I wore my patterned jumper as we traced the locations used in the series. We stopped at Holberg no 19 where the owner, an American actor sat having coffee and telling anecdotes about his time in New York as we savoured some amazing coffee and truly delicious cheesecake served in a glass consisting of a layer of crumbled biscuits, then philadelphia and cream and topped with fruit. The weather was a little unkind to us that afternoon though and a cold drizzle descended, chilling us to the bone and forcing us to take shelter in Café Oscar where we jealously watched everyone around us devouring the delicious Smørrebrød (Danish open sandwiches) and crepes filled with smoked salmon before ordering them ourselves. We stayed there for a long time in the flickering light of the candles, wishing the rain would  stop and  regretting that we felt too full to try the amazing cakes from the bakery we had discovered on Store Kongensgade called Taste (if you go there, will you try it for me?) 

The sun made its reappearance as we wheeled our cases a short distance from the hotel to the train station and I took a final glance at the city, feeling I could have stayed there forever. Yet somehow I wasn't sad becuase I know there will be other times, that there is so much to go back for, that I left a part of myself there. I love you Copenhagen.


Following Sarah Lund - the police station








Holberg no 19




The best cheesecake

I love Danish bakeries!








The guards at Amalienborg Slot

Inside the Marmor church

Taking shelter at Café Oscar for the best lunch




Taste Deli - Store Kongensgade 80
Café Oscar - Bredgade 58
Lagkagehuset - various locations
Holberg no 19 - Holbergsgade 19
Meyers Deli - Gl. Kongevej 107, 1850 Fredreiksberg
Barista CoffeeSödergatan 22, Malmö
LagerhusSödergatan 16, Malmö

24 commentaires:

  1. Oh, I'd love to visit Copenhagen and Scandinavia! Thanks for making me travel virtually thanks to your lovely pictures. Wonderful!



  2. C'est toujours un pur délice de te lire et de se perdre dans tes photographies. Tu as un talent rare. Je le dis et le redis. Merci pour ce nouveau billet. J'irai à Copenhague, pour la première fois, cet été, pour une petite semaine. Bien à toi, Holly.

  3. What a wonderful trip! Thank you for taking us along. I really want to go but until then, thank you for the words & the photos. xoxo

  4. A beautiful adventure, thank you.

  5. Oh my goodness. What a description. I want to head to the airport immediately. That cheesecake in a glass looks heavenly. It all looks wonderful. Thank you for such a lovely introduction to Scandinavia.

  6. @Rosa - I'm positive it would be your kind of place.
    @Holly - Ton commentaire me touche beaucoup encore une fois - un grand merci à toi! C'est chouette que tu partes aussi pour Copenhague et une semaine là-bas sera vraiment super. J'espère que tu nous raconteras. Le rundetarn te plaira certainement et puis avec très peu de marches, c'est super avec les enfants. Bises.
    @Susan - It would be so lovely to go there togather. I miss those bakeries already and am longing to return soon, although my next trip will probalby be Helsinki. Hope you#re feeling better and take care.
    @P.K - My pleasure, thanks so much for reading.
    @Denise - I know, it's such an incredible city, so vibrant yet relaxed. I can see why so many people are in love with it and from Berlin, the flight is only 40 minutes - amazing! That cheesecake was perhaps my favourite and I want to have a go at making my own.

  7. Beautiful pictures! Now all I can think of is that I too want to go to Copenhagen to eat Smørrebrød... I've been trying to explain the concept of Danish open-faced sandwiches to my French friends for a while, but they just don't get it... I'll try showing them your pictures! ;)

    I'm really happy to hear that your first visit to Scandinavia was a success!

  8. Hey, there, thanks so much. I so love Copenhagen and now this first trip to Scandinavia has made me hungry for more! The smørrebrød was amazing and there are some cafés that offer around 200 different varieties! People in Germany are so negative about Scandinavian food in general when I tell them I ate well and to be honest, these food clichés irritate me a little. Jacques Chirac once said about Finland that you couldn't trust a country whose cuisine was so bad. Not all French cooking is great either though and the bakeries in Copenhagen were defintely as good as those in Paris. Hope the pictures help, otherwise maybe you'll have to plan a little trip to convince them.

  9. Thanks to the Wanderer. J'ai toujours voulu visiter les pays scandinaves, c'est un coin du continent que je ne connais pas du tout, bigrement attirant.

    Chirac disait n'importe quoi. J'aime beaucoup l'idee du Smørrebrød, c'est d'ailleurs ce que je fais regulierement le dimanche soir quand j'ai fait un pain au levain (mais nous on appelle ca des tartines).

  10. Really beautiful! I always love seeing, and hearing about, your adventures.

  11. @Gracienne - Merci beaucoup! Je rêvais depuis longtemps d'aller en Scandinavie et puis c'était encore plus belle que je n'avais imaginé. J'ai hâte d'y rentrer et de voir un peu plus de la nature la prochaine fois. Merci aussi de me rappeler des tartines - j'en ai souvent mangé en France, ça doit être vraiment bien chez toi le dimanche soir. Tu as raison - il ne faut pas se fier trop aux opinions de Chirac! Bon week-end!
    @Lecia - Oh thanks friend. Hope you have a nice weekend.

  12. Alors ça y est le Danemark et la Suède n'ont plus de secret pour toi ;-) ça me fait tellement plaisir de découvrir tes photos et tes impressions. Tu est si douée pour transmettre tes émotions ! Et puis, grâce à toi, je découvre plein de nouveaux endroits qui me donnent terriblement envie d'y retourner...

  13. Amazing photos Emily! I've been wanting to go to Copenhagen so bad--now even more. Glad to hear you're taking advantage of this time to travel.

  14. @Julia - Je suis ravie de lire ton commentaire car pour moi tu es la référence sur la Suède et j'adore lire tes billets de voyage! Ce coin du monde est tellement fascinant que j'ai envie d'y retourner tout de suite. Ce qui me frappait le plus, c'est que c'était beaucoup moins cher en Suède qu'à Copenhague. Je regrettais un peu de ne pas avoir appris un peu de suédois car ça fait bizarre de leur parler en danois et d'avoir la réponse dans une langue que je ne comprends pas très bien. La prochaine fois j'aimerais visiter Louisiana, ce musée d'art contemporain et aussi quelques châteaux.
    @Christine - Thanks so much, I'm glad you like the photos! I remember you mentioning wanting to go to Scandinavia and I can only recommend Copenhagen. The flight was really cheap and took only 40 minutes (less time that travelling from my flat to Schönfeld!). Everything is so easy and relaxed and it's wonderful being by the sea.

  15. beautiful photos! now all I want is to go to Sweden and Denmark for a holiday - they are so near but I have only been to Stockholm for a quick visit a few times! by the way, thank you so much for leaving a comment & for the kind words - I have left you a reply there on my blog. :)

  16. Thanks so much for stopping by Inna and for answering my questions on your blog! It's nice to learn a little more about you and I'm glad my post made you want to go to Copenhagen. I'm curious to how it compares to Stockholm and hope to visit that soon as well.

  17. I feel like I traveled there with you, Emily Vanessa. It looks like such a beautiful city, Copenhagen. We were planning a trip there last summer but we had to cancel. Fingers crossed for this year. I'm taking notes of all the places you visited!

  18. such a beautiful series of photos and I love the passion with which you bring Copenhagen to life. I've just watched the first 2 series of 'The Killing' (so late!) and want to walk those streets myself (especially if Sarah Lund was stalking ahead..)

  19. @Magda - Oh thanks! I'm really sure you'd love it there and would take wonderful photos. So I'm already crossing my fingers that you make it there this year - summer would be a lovely time to visit.
    @Kate - I'm pleased my love of the city comes across because it's truly one of my favourites. Never mind about coming late to the Killing; I watched it several months after everyone else had but both series are so great that it doesn't matter. I just had to make sure I didn't read anything about it on the Internet. We actually wanted to do an organised walking tour of 'The Killing' but sadly it wasn't available at that time so we had to do our own.

  20. I cant describe with words how I love all your posts. This one is nothing but perfection too.

  21. Oh, it's so great to hear that when I'm tired on a Friday night. I feel my words can't possibly do justice to this wonderful city but it's good to have this post to remind me of all that was good there. Have a lovely weekend!

  22. What a beautiful portrait of my town. It always makes me so happy when visitors enjoy the town as much as I do. Hope you get to come back soon.

  23. Oh, that has to be the best compliment! It must be wonderful to live there and would love to return there as soon as possible and, in fact, visit more of Denmark.

  24. I feel like I traveled there with you, Emily Vanessa. It looks like such a beautiful city, Copenhagen. We were planning a trip there last summer but we had to cancel. Fingers crossed for this year. I'm taking notes of all the places you visited!